The First Omega Wrist-Chronograph Limited Edition

Limited editions exist for all sorts of different reasons – to celebrate an important company anniversary, an historical event, the debut of a particular iconic watch model, or, most often, simply to create an aura of desirability around a new model. However, sometimes, albeit rarely, a limited edition exists because of inherent rarity of materials or inherent difficulty of craft, and in this case Omega has created a limited edition whose small-batch status stems from both. The Omega First Omega Wrist-Chronograph Limited Edition uses 18‴ chronograph movements from 1913 – these, just to be clear, are not reproductions of vintage movements; they're actual chronograph calibers that have been in storage at Omega since 1913 and which have been assembled and cased in large wristwatch cases styled to recall the very first decades of wristwatch design.Omega wrist chronograph limited edition replica.

The movements went through a process of refurbishment that involved bringing modern analytical and machining methods along with tradition hand assembly, adjustment, and finishing techniques together in order to produce the finished wristwatch.

Two important steps in working with the original calibers 18‴ CHRO were the addition of modern jeweling for the going and chronograph trains, and a careful analysis of the wheels for both trains as well. In the first case, the plates and bridges were carefully milled out in order to accommodate modern jeweling; this had to be done taking into consideration the individual characteristics of each watch, as each original movement is slightly different (thanks to the manufacturing variations characteristic of processes of the time) and it was essential to ensure that the new jewels were a correct fit for the original components.

Analyzing the gear train involved first photographing each wheel, and then, where necessary, using a special tool to refine the profiles of the gear teeth, to ensure proper engagement of each wheel with the next.

Traditional hand-decorating techniques were used as well, including mirror polishing of flanks and anglage, and black polishing of other steel parts.

The movements, once finishing and assembly were completed, were placed inside white gold cases and fitted with grand feu enamel dials; the only concession to the use of modern materials, done as a way of subtly connecting these watches with the modern company, was the use of Sedna gold for the crown, and the chronograph pusher at 6:00. In keeping with the designs of Omega's first wristwatch chronographs (which were used during World War I by the British Royal Flying Corps) the case features hinged caseback.


The result is a watch that's both vintage and modern – vintage, in that the caliber 18‴ CHRO was manufactured over a hundred years ago and, as Omega's first chronograph movement to be used in a wristwatch, is an essential part of the company's history, using many traditional assembly and finishing techniques; modern, in that state-of-the-art analytical and manufacturing methods were employed in order to ensure the degree of reliability and functionality expected in a modern watch.


Initial Thoughts

If you love mechanical horology as an art and craft practiced for its own sake, this is an extremely interesting watch. It is, of course, an anachronism and naturally in a certain sense, mechanical horology in 2018 overall is an anachronism but the use of movements from the very early 20th century gives them an aura of legitimacy that few if any modern wristwatches can match. The closest competition to these that I can think of offhand are the Minerva-movement powered chronographs from Montblanc, which are also based on early 20th century pocket watch chronograph movements. The Omega 18‴ CHRO caliber represents a fascinating opportunity to experience horology as it was when wristwatches were just starting to become more widespread, and with its split, bimetallic temperature-compensating balance, is an unmodified and direct representation of the best watchmaking had to offer in the years just before the First World War.

Needless to say, this is not the sort of thing just any brand can do. To refurbish, case, and offer a watch with a movement from the early 20th century, you have to, you know, have been in business since the early 20th century, and the fact that these are a real slice of history, and not just cosmetic reproductions of early vintage wrist chronographs, makes them extremely exciting – not just to Omega fans, but to anyone interested in the history of the chronograph, and the history of the wristwatch.

The Basics

Brand: Omega
Model: First Omega Wrist-Chronograph

Diameter: 47.5mm
Case Material: 18k white gold
Dial: White grand feu enamel
Strap/Bracelet: riveted leather, with 2 additional gold and brown straps included

The Movement

Caliber: 18‴ CHRO
Functions: Chronograph
Diameter: 18‴
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph)
Additional Details: Lateral clutch, column wheel controlled movement, made in 1913; bimetallic temperature compensating balance with steel overcoil balance spring

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